Her Majesty, the Queen of Ceramic With perseverance and precision, Audemars Piguet continues to explore ceramic craftsmanship. No extravagance of color, no technical weirdness, just a noble and masterful use of this material, serving two new Royal Oak Offshore watches.
3-6-9 or 6-9-12? Audemars Piguet loves the multiplication table of 3, but loves the Royal Oak double watch even more. To celebrate its 150th anniversary, the watchmaker in Le Brassus has been particularly generous and kicked off the year with two new Royal Oak Offshore chronographs in the first quarter.
Spotting the difference between the two will be easier than usual. One is 43 mm in diameter, with a green dial, bezel, bracelet and push-button guards, and subdials at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. The other is 42 mm in diameter, all black, with subdials at 12, 6 and 9 o'clock. This change in the design of the flyback chronographs also led to a difference in the movements that drive them: the first is equipped with the calibre 4401, while the second is equipped with the calibre 4404. So why are they presented together? The answer is a single word: ceramic.
Over the years, ceramic has become an essential part of the Audemars Piguet brand identity. Audemars Piguet first explored ceramics in 1986, but as Thibaut Le Loarer, head of research at Audemars Piguet, explains:
âIt took us a decade to really elevate ceramic to a position on a par with steel, titanium and carbon. Mastering its creative potential was a decisive step that enabled the brand to push material innovation far beyond expectations.â
Today, ceramic is deeply embedded in the DNA of many watch brands. The Swatch Group has its own production unit (Comadur), which supplies the Biel-based giant with everything from Blancpain and Omega bezels to Rado cases. LVMH is also a key player, led by Hublot, and of course, thereâs the pioneering Chanel with its J12.
Key elements of APâs identity
However, Audemars Piguet takes a very different approach. First, ceramic itself isnât the main attraction of a watch â itâs just a material. It serves the horological vision, not defines it. Thatâs why the Royal Oak Offshore is made of ceramic, as, as the ultimate sports watch, it needs to be durable enough to withstand frequent wear.
Second, ceramic is treated in the same way as gold, steel or platinum, which means it must achieve the same level of finishing as these traditional metals â a much more challenging feat. Ceramic is inherently very dense and resistant to satin brushing or mirror polishing. Audemars Piguet spent a decade refining its finishing techniques until the results were flawless. This is reflected in the complex geometry of both watches, from the screw-down crowns to the stunning full-ceramic bracelet of the black version, where brushed center links contrast with polished bevels.
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